Antoine - Allez Up 

Antoine has been climbing for over 20 years and has worked at Allez Up in Montreal for 8 years as the Managing Director. He’s passionate about outdoor bouldering, which strongly influences his gear preferences and recommendations. 

Interviewer: So, Antoine, tell us a bit about yourself.
Antoine: Well, I’ve been climbing for a few years now—not 27 years at Allez Up as some might think! I mostly boulder.

Interviewer: What pair of climbing shoes helped you make the most progress?
Antoine: That depends on the type of climbing. Indoors, I go for my Sportiva Theories. They’re soft, easy to slip on, and perfect for board climbing. Outdoors, I love the Vintage Solutions for their stiffness, which is great for small holds, especially on Laurentian granite. The Classic Solutions are a nice middle ground, but for problems requiring toe hooks, I always stick with the Theories.

Interviewer: What’s your dream climbing spot?
Antoine: Without a doubt, Rocklands. It’s on my list. If I had to revisit somewhere, it’d be Bishop. That said, I love exploring new boulders here in the Laurentians.

Interviewer: What’s your secret to taking care of your hands?
Antoine: I use products like Rhino Skin or ClimbSkin depending on the need. Indoors, I minimize product use to avoid glassy hands. If my calluses get too thick, I use a balm to soften them. But the most important thing is regular sanding to keep my skin in good shape.

Interviewer: Do you have a preference for a specific type of chalk?
Antoine: Absolutely, I like liquid chalk as a base layer, especially before serious attempts. On top of that, I prefer block chalk—it’s less messy, and I love the chunky texture.

Interviewer: What’s your go-to training gear?
Antoine: At home, I use a Beast maker and a Tension Block. At the gym, I rely on the equipment available there.

Interviewer: Any underrated gadget for climbing?
Antoine: I always carry sewing thread to patch up my Sportiva shoes since they tend to wear out. I also modify my brushes. My favorites are FlyHold brushes because they’re stiffer after trimming them, which makes them perfect for brushing holds.

Interviewer: What climbing shoes would you recommend for beginners?
Antoine: Comfort is key. When you’re starting out, your footwork isn’t refined enough for shoes to make a huge difference. Go for something comfortable that you can wear for longer periods. I’d recommend velcro closures for easy on and off. As for budget, don’t splurge on your first pair—invest in your second pair instead.

Interviewer: What’s the most fun product you own?
Antoine: Definitely my knee pad. It’s not super useful indoors, but outdoors, it’s great for scums or kneebars that can take weight off. It allows for some micro-shakes or unique moves that wouldn’t be possible without it.

Interviewer: Do you have any fun or unusual items in your climbing bag?
Antoine: Always! For indoors, I keep things light and always have a selection of sparkling water for after the climb. Outdoors, I pack everything—extra brushes, lights, knee pads, gloves for brushing new boulders, sandpaper, and even a fan for cooling my fingers on the rock. I also carry a knife, glue for finger repairs, and snacks like cliff bars. You never know what you might need!

Interviewer: How long have those cliff bars been in your bag?
Antoine: Oh, about six months. They’re pretty soft now.

Interviewer: Do bubbles help keep you light on the wall?
Antoine: (Laughs) Only after a hard climbing session.

 

Kennedy - Seven Bays

Emily, the media manager at Seven Bays, interviews Kennedy, a climber and setter, about her climbing preferences and gear. Kennedy shares that she loves climbing in her Scarpa Instinct VS for their versatility, as they work well both outdoors on sharp granite and indoors on slabs. Her dream climbing destination is Magic Wood in Switzerland, known for its granite and scenic location.

Interviewer: So, what pair of shoes do you like to climb in the most?
Kennedy: I definitely love climbing in my Scarpa Instinct VS. They’re amazing all-around shoes. They hold up really well on the sharp granite here, but they’re also comfortable for standing on small footholds. Plus, they’re sensitive enough for slab climbing indoors.

Interviewer: Awesome. What’s a spot you’ve always wanted to climb at?
Kennedy: Definitely Magic Wood in Switzerland. The granite there is incredible, and I really enjoy climbing on granite over sandstone. Plus, Switzerland—it’s such a dream destination.

Interviewer: For sure. Do you prefer to rope climb or boulder?
Kennedy: Definitely bouldering. I’m not a fan of heights, even when tied in. I’ve always felt more comfortable bouldering—big bouldering girl here!

Interviewer: Do you have a specific brush you like to use?
Kennedy: The Deadpoint brush. It’s super thick and works really well for cleaning holds, both indoors and outdoors. I never go to a session without it.

Interviewer: What about chalk? Do you have a favorite?
Kennedy: I love Tidal chalk! It’s soft and buttery, and it’s made by a local from my hometown. I’m not a fan of rough chalk—it just doesn’t feel great.

Interviewer: Is there any training gear you can’t live without?
Kennedy: The Tension Block for sure. It’s portable, so I can use it outdoors to warm up or indoors for finger strength and tendon health.

Interviewer: What’s your go-to chalk bag or bucket?
Kennedy: Always Organic chalk buckets. The patterns and colors are unique, and the vibes are just unbeatable.

Interviewer: When you’re climbing outside, what’s your favorite crash pad?
Kennedy: The Flashed crashpad. It has extra straps to easily tie another pad onto it, which is super helpful when I’m carrying multiple pads.

Interviewer: The granite here can be rough on your hands. Do you use anything for skin care?
Kennedy: Definitely Tip Juice—I probably overuse it, but it’s a lifesaver for climbing more than once a week on granite.

Interviewer: What’s a non-traditional product you find useful?
Kennedy: Sole Spray. It’s a total game-changer for keeping climbing shoes fresh. I use it after every session.

Interviewer : Do you have any must-haves for training outside?
Kennedy: I’m always cold, so I bring down booties—pro tip: size up so you can wear them over climbing shoes. I also use wireless hand warmers inside my gloves to keep my fingers warm.

 

Rob - Boulder House 

Rob has been with Boulder House since its very beginning in 2016, serving as the General Manager and Co-Owner. A passionate climber with deep ties to the community, Rob’s climbing journey is a bit of a mystery—but we do know he played a big role in Victoria’s iconic Fleming Beach scene.

Interviewer: What’s your favorite pair of climbing shoes right now?
Rob: My favorite pair right now are the Theory. Really nice, soft shoes—super positive.

Interviewer: Do you have a recommendation for someone just getting into climbing and looking for their first pair of shoes?
Rob: I’d recommend the Tarantula. It’s a great beginner shoe with a nice fit and a flat sole, which helps you learn how to use your feet properly.

Interviewer: What’s a must-have for an ideal climbing session?
Rob: Definitely a good group of people. A solid crew to keep you psyched and to share the energy—it’s all about that vibe.

Interviewer: When planning a climbing trip, what’s the biggest thing you think about?
Rob: Other than the climbing, the rest days. Recovery is key, so I think about how I can stay comfortable and relaxed on those days off.

Interviewer: Is there any underrated climbing or training gear you’d recommend?
Rob: The rubber donut. It’s my go-to warm-up tool.

Interviewer: What’s your secret to maintaining good skin for climbing?
Rob: I use Rhino Repair between sessions. It depends on your skin type—wet or dry—but for me, it helps re-moisturize when my hands dry out.

Interviewer: What’s your post-climb meal or drink?
Rob: An ice-cold beer in a can is always nice, and for food, something high in protein. The calories, the gravy, the starch—it’s great for recovery.

Interviewer: Do you have a favorite climbing memory?
Rob: Probably at Joshua Tree—getting rained out. It’s a memory that sticks with you.

Interviewer: What’s a dream climbing location you’ve visited?
Rob: That’s a secret! But it’s here on the West Coast, on the water, and it’s beautiful.

Interviewer: Is there anywhere on your radar for the near future?
Rob: Definitely. Sardinia, Fontainebleau, and Namaste Wall in Zion National Park have all been on my list for a while.

Interviewer: Do you ever chalk up before doing things around the house?
Rob: No, but when I get nervous, I do reach behind me sometimes. Old habits, right?

Interviewer: Do you have a favorite crash pad?
Rob: I really like the Drifters from Flashed. They have a great strapping system—not just for coupling pads together but also for tightening the strap at the bottom so it doesn’t buckle when you’re bouldering.

Interviewer: Any preferred chalk brands?
Rob: There are a lot of good ones, but I’m personally biased towards Tidal Chalk.

Interviewer: Do you prefer chalk buckets or bags?
Rob: I like chalk buckets because you can get your hands in properly. The Black Diamond bucket is my favorite—it has fleece on the sides to get just the right amount of chalk and wipe off the excess.

Interviewer: When’s the best time of year to climb outdoors on Vancouver Island?
Rob: Fall, winter, and spring. The cooler temperatures are perfect for climbing.

Interviewer: Thanks, Rob, for all the tips and insights!
Rob: My pleasure!