New River Rock Vol.2

The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal lure for both trad and sport climbers.

No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull.

There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

Volume 2 – The Meadow, Gauley, and Summersville Lake

This volume documents the climbing north of the main gorge of the New, with over 1400 routes on the crags along the Meadow and Gauley rivers and surrounding Summersville Lake. Many of the crags here are close to fine swimming holes, making them favorites for summer climbing.

The Coliseum at the Lake is arguably the most sought-after hardperson’s crag in the entire region, and as of 2021 now boasts the hardest sport climb in the East. Just a short stroll away is Orange Oswald, likely the most popular 5.10 sport crag in the New. And the steep, psychedelic rock of the Meadow must be seen to be believed.